Whale Watching Photography: Sharp Shots, Rough Seas, and Why I Stay on Land

How to capture the giants of the Azores, choosing the right boat, and managing motion sickness.

The Azores are one of the best places in the world to see whales and dolphins. For a photographer, spotting a Sperm Whale’s tail (fluke) before a deep dive is a bucket-list moment.

However, capturing these images requires navigating the Atlantic Ocean, which is rarely flat.

Full Disclosure: I am a landscape photographer for a reason—I prefer solid ground. I suffer from terrible motion sickness, so I rarely go out on the boats myself. The only exception I make is the crossing between Flores and Corvo, a short but visually stunning journey that I believe is worth the discomfort. For everything else, I ensure my clients are in the best hands possible while I wait on the pier.

Here is what you need to know to get the shot (and keep your lunch down).

1. The Boat Choice: Zodiac vs. Catamaran

Your choice of boat dictates your camera angle and your comfort.

• The Zodiac (Semi-Rigid/RIB):

  • Pros: You are at water level. The photos look dramatic and intimate because you are shooting eye-to-level with the animal, not looking down.

  • Cons: It is bumpy, wet, and intense. It’s physically demanding to keep the camera steady.

• The Catamaran:

  • Pros: Stable, dry, and has bathrooms. You can move around easily.

  • Cons: You shoot from a higher vantage point, so the background is often just water rather than the horizon/sky.

  • My Advice: If you are prone to seasickness like me, take the Catamaran. No photo is worth being miserable for 3 hours.

2. Gear Guide: Stability & Speed

A tripod on a boat is useless and dangerous—it transmits the engine vibration directly to the camera. Handholding is the only way.

• Lens Choice: A zoom is mandatory. Whales can surface 500 meters away or right next to the boat.

  • Ideal: 100-400mm. This gives you the best flexibility.

  • Minimum: 70-200mm (you might need to crop significantly in post-production).

• Image Stabilization (Crucial): Make sure your lens or body stabilization is ON.

  • Pro Tip: If your lens has a switch for modes, use Mode 2 (Panning) or "Active/Sport" Mode. Standard stabilization tries to correct all movement, which can fight against you on a bobbing boat. "Active" modes are designed for shooting from moving platforms.

3. Camera Settings: The Technical Details

The ocean is a chaotic environment for light and movement. Forget "Manual" mode; you need to react fast.

• Shutter Speed: This is your priority. The boat is rocking, and the whale moves fast.

  • Minimum: 1/1000s.

  • Ideal: 1/1600s or faster. You want to freeze the water droplets flying off the tail; otherwise, the photo will look soft.

• Aperture: Don't shoot wide open. Use f/5.6 to f/8. You need a bit of depth of field to ensure both the tail and the water texture are sharp.

• Auto ISO (The Secret Weapon): The light changes instantly—one second you are shooting dark blue water, the next you are pointing at the bright sky.

  • Setup: Set your Shutter (1/1600) and Aperture (f/7.1) manually, then set ISO to Auto. This guarantees your exposure is correct without you fiddling with buttons while the action happens.

• Focus Area (Don't use a single point): Trying to keep a single focus point on a whale while the boat jumps is impossible.

  • Use "Zone AF" or "Dynamic Area": Select a cluster of points (Zone) in the center of the frame. This gives the camera a larger target area to lock onto.

  • Modern Tracking: If you have a newer mirrorless camera, use 3D Tracking or Subject Tracking. Lock onto the fin or tail, and let the camera's AI follow the animal as you recompose.

4. The "Seasick Photographer" Survival Guide

If you are prone to motion sickness but still want the photo:

• Don't glue your eye to the viewfinder: Looking through a telephoto lens while the horizon pitches is the fastest way to get sick. Keep both eyes open and look at the real horizon. Only raise the camera when the action happens.

• Stay outside: Never go inside the cabin. You need fresh air and a view of the horizon.

• Center of gravity: Stay in the back/center of the boat where the motion is felt the least.

5. Protecting Your Gear

Saltwater is kryptonite for electronics.

• The Cloth: Bring a microfiber cloth. You will get spray on the front element.

• The "Towel Trick": Keep a small towel over your camera when you aren't shooting to protect it from unexpected splashes.

• Post-Trip: When you return to the hotel, wipe your camera body and lens barrel with a slightly damp cloth (fresh water) to remove invisible salt residue before it corrodes the seals.

6. Who I Recommend: Futurismo

Since I generally don't guide these trips personally on the water, I partner with the experts at Futurismo.

• Why them? They are pioneers in the Azores. They don't just "chase" whales; they have marine biologists on board who respect the animals and explain behavior, which helps you anticipate the shot (like knowing when a Sperm Whale is about to dive).

• The Fleet: They operate both large Catamarans and smaller Zodiacs, giving you the choice based on your comfort level.

This article was created with the support of AI and refined with first-hand local knowledge by Azores-based photographer Bruno Ázera.